Where the mountain locals go to see the changing leaves
Peak leaf-changing weekend in the North Carolina mountains is predicted to arrive in the third and fourth weeks of October this year.
The following article appeared in the Sept. 30, 2023, edition of The Charlotte Ledger, a morning email newsletter with smart and original information from experienced journalists. Free and paid subscription plans available — sign up today! More details.
The Ledger’s resident mountain expert, Lindsey Banks, shares 7 of the state’s best spots to hike, bike or walk to see fall foliage at its finest — all within a 3-hour drive from Charlotte
Ledger staff writer Lindsey Banks (left) and her 13-year-old brother Eli (right) on a backpacking trip last October on Graybeard Mountain near Montreat, N.C.
by Lindsey Banks
Nothing hits quite like the first cool September breeze after a brutally hot summer. The seasons are changing, which means the leaves are soon to follow.
Autumn is my favorite time of year for many reasons, but mostly, it reminds me of home. Growing up 10 minutes outside of Asheville in Black Mountain, I only had to look outside my window to see a wall of orange, yellow and red climbing over the mountains. I may not see that looking outside my NoDa apartment window, but luckily, the mountains are only a quick two-hour drive west.
Peak leaf-changing weekend in the North Carolina mountains is predicted to arrive in the third and fourth weeks of October this year.
If you left your trip planning to Google, it would tell you that the best places to see fall leaves in North Carolina are the Blue Ridge Parkway and Linville Gorge. But as a local who has been to those places countless times, I can assure you that they tend to be crowded in October and November. They’re worth visiting. However, if you’re looking to be alone with the trees, I’ve got a few suggestions — but be prepared to hike or drive a little to find that solitude.
So with the help of some fellow tree-huggers (AKA my friends and family), I present to you seven of our favorite, lesser-known spots to see the fall colors in western North Carolina:
🍁 Walk or Bike: Point Lookout Trail off Highway 70, about 17 miles east of Asheville
This trail is one of my family’s year-round favorites, mostly because it’s an easy trek with a rewarding view. The path is wide and paved, and you don’t need to walk the entire 3.6 miles to get to a view. It’s a great biking path, too!
There’s a gradual incline on the trail, so getting to the view is a nice downhill stroll. Walking back up to your car requires a little more energy, so keep that in mind if you decide to walk more of the trail. (The last time I walked the trail, I went with my fit and adventurous 75-year-old grandmother.)
I recommend starting your walk at the Ridgecrest Trailhead instead of the Old Fort Trailhead. My family and I usually walk to the flagpole, which is about a mile. When you pass over an old train tunnel, you’re almost there! Look for two wooden benches, a trail map and the red Fonta Flora sign.
Where to park: This trailhead doesn’t have a designated parking lot, but pedestrians can park along the side of the road before the gate at the beginning of the trail.
🍁 Hike: Walker’s Knob on Graybeard Mountain, about 20 miles east of Asheville in Montreat, N.C.
This suggestion is for our seasoned hikers who are looking for a secluded place to view the leaves. The trail is about 4 miles one-way, so an 8-mile trip in total. The first mile of the trail is a grueling trek. (The last time I hiked this trail, I had a 30-pound backpack on, so my judgment might be a little skewed.) It’s a steep incline, and the fallen leaves make the rocks slippery obstacles.
But after the first mile, the trail mellows out and turns into a gradual incline, with a few switchbacks that help mitigate the incline. There’s a nice water source toward the top of the trail that will reward you with drinking water if you have a filter, and there’s a shelter and fire pit if you decide to spend the night.
You’ll know you’re almost to Walker’s Knob when you reach a red shelter. Off to the left, you’ll see a sign that says “Walker’s Knob.” From there, it’s an easy 3-minute walk to the overlook. When I’ve gone, I’ve usually had the whole overlook to myself.
Where to park: You can leave your car at the trailhead. There’s a small lot and additional parking along the side of the road.
I snapped this sunset photo on an overnight backpacking trip to Walker’s Knob on Oct. 28 last year. I forgot to pack a pair of dry socks and almost went into hypothermic shock when the temperature plummeted at night. Learn from my mistake.
🍁 Drive or Hike: Wilson Creek Wild and Scenic River Area in Caldwell County near Linville Gorge
Wilson Creek was recommended to me by a family friend who is also an avid hiker, and I can’t wait to check it out on my next trip to see my family. (So you might run into me this fall if you decide to check it out, too.) It’s located in the Grandfather District of the Pisgah National Forest about 100 miles from Charlotte, and it’s known for its waterfalls.
The Wilson Creek area is a great place to go for a scenic parkway-type drive. There are also a few trails worth checking out, like Big Lost Cove Cliffs Trail, a 3.3-mile round-trip hike that’s said to be moderate and have a great view at the top.
🍁 Hike: Elk Knob State Park about 20 miles northeast of Boone in Todd, N.C.
This trail is another recommendation from a family friend. The Elk Knob Summit Trail near Boone is described by the AllTrails hiking website as a moderately challenging 3.9-mile round-trip hike. The trail has a gradual incline with many switchbacks and multiple viewpoints at the top that overlook Boone.
Explore Boone describes the summit trail as the “best-kept secret” in the Boone area. (Although maybe it’s not such a secret anymore.)
Where to park: There’s free parking at the trailhead at the end of Old Woods Road.
🍁 Walk: Lake Susan on the campus of Montreat College, east of Asheville
Lake Susan is in the middle of Montreat College’s campus near Black Mountain. Montreat is one of my favorite places to hike — there are a ton of trails — but if you’re looking for an easier stroll among the fall foliage, Lake Susan is a trusty option. It’s a 0.3-mile loop around the lake, and the reflection of the surrounding mountains and trees in the lake is immersive.
If you’re looking for a little more exercise, consider other Montreat trails. My favorite is Lookout Mountain, but be prepared for crowds if you go on the weekend.
Where to park: There’s free parking around the lake and all over campus.
🍁 Drive: Highway 9 to Chimney Rock State Park and Lake Lure, 25 miles southeast of Asheville
Everybody knows that the Blue Ridge Parkway is a must during the fall months, but if you’re looking for an alternate drive, the route along N.C. Highway 9 (referred to as “No. 9” by locals) is beautiful this time of year.
I usually start the drive in Black Mountain (if you’re looking for a starting address, you can type in Christmount Christian Assembly on Fern Way), but you can hop on Highway 9 wherever you’d like. If you’re coming from Black Mountain, it’s about a 40-minute drive and takes you through Chimney Rock State Park, which also has great views and hiking trails. Lake Lure is just another 20-minute drive.
🍁 Hear me out… Drive or Walk: Biltmore Estate & Gardens in Asheville
Everyone knows about the Biltmore House in Asheville; it’s not a secret or secluded place. (As an annual pass holder, I’m a firm believer that everyone should go at least once.) The drive alone through the estate is scenic, and during the fall, it’s breathtaking.
But here’s what isn’t as well-known: Biltmore plants a huge display of Chrysanthemums in its gardens during the fall. Whether or not you consider mums to be fall foliage, you can’t deny that the quilted pattern of fall colors will make you crave an apple cider and a cozy blanket.
There’s also a large pumpkin display at Antler Hill Village on the grounds right now.
Cost: You can purchase a grounds pass starting at $65, which allows access to the gardens, grounds, restaurants and shops. A House and Grounds pass is $95 if you’re interested in a self-guided tour through the Biltmore House.
Lindsey Banks is a staff writer with The Charlotte Ledger. Reach her at lindsey@cltledger.com.
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